A large and imposing manor house, set back from the main road, invites one to a pub and restaurant that purports to be a little more upmarket than your average gastropub. It looks god, and even the smell from the kitchen as I walked past was more than inviting. And the 'conservatory' seating overlooking the garden was a much more pleasant experience than inside the actual pub part of the building; despite the pub interior being a few degrees warmer!
The menu has a wide range and a varied selection, all of which on paper sound superb. Seated with my companion we ordered our starters, pork crackling with plum chutney (delicious), and a smoked haddock and watercress fishcake. As tasty as the fishcake was, it was very much a case of 'whistle when you find any fish!', and the potato cake, was just that, more than 90% potato! Served on a bed of greens, these greens had already been drizzled with a gribiche mayonnaise, which sadly did not in any way compliment the fresh lemon and the tartare sauce which came with the fishcake. Competing and ill-matched flavours.
The main courses fared little better. We both chose the lamb shank, which, one has to say, was cooked to absolute perfection. Where the chef falls down somewhat is in the cooking of the accompanying vegetables. The broccoli was not even al-dente. I assume it had just been shown a pan and served. Whilst the carrots were soft, tasty, and utterly perfect. Instead of the mashed potato on the menu, I opted for thick-cut chips, however, these were served on the plate and in the thick gravy surrounding the lamb, and so instead of crunchy chips which I could enjoy with a little vinegar, I would have been better off sticking with the mashed potato, as indeed that was mostly what my chips were!
We were asked at least 5 times during the course of our visit if everything was all right and if we had enjoyed our food, by at least three different members of staff. That is overkill, and was annoying. The food was indeed all right and of good quality, but sadly, at the prices they charge for it, it is not at all value for money. This meal, including a soft drink each, was the wrong side of £70.
Reviewer - Matthew Dougall
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