GASTRONOMY REVIEW: The Riverside Inn, Acton Bridge, near Northwich.

Since my last visit to this restaurant on the banks of the river Weaver in Acton Bridge, and my more than positive comments about the establishment, things have changed somewhat I fear.

The stay started well enough; trying a new-to-me ginger beer which was excellent, and enjoying a half hour in the sunshine on their waterside terrace. We are in England however, and so, after the blazing sun, came rain, and so we ventured inside to eat. Myself and my companion both ordered different starters, and these were both delightful. The salt and pepper calamari were cooked to perfection, whilst a duck, truffle, and red onion marmalade terrine (a rather odd but actually flavoursome combination) was delicious. This came served with toasted bruschetta and red onion chutney; sadly the pea shoot salad which also should have accompanied this dish was conspicuous in its absence. 

But that was where things went a little more awry. It became patently obvious that this restaurant does not employ a chef. The menu is unalterable. We wanted to swap and change an ingredient or not have a particular sauce etc with our main courses... but it was explained to us that these dishes are bought ready-to-go, and they cannot be altered. I have a cartoon-like image therefore of the kitchen being simply a row of microwaves with someone standing by placing the food in them for the required number of minutes waiting for the 'pings'! Both of us therefore had to make do with our second choices of main. My companion ordered 'Duo of chicken and beef' [Roasted chicken supreme in a chicken gravy and slow-cooked British beef, shredded and pressed with caramelised onions, in a beef dripping and Merlot gravy. With buttery mash and seasonal greens], whilst I opted for a mixed grill. 

Whilst both the chicken and the beef were good, and the two separate types of gravy (chicken gravy, and beef dripping and merlot gravy) came in separate pots, the mixed grill did not sail through with flying colours sadly. After asking for the rump steak to be well done it arrived medium-to-well-done, whilst the lamb chop was rare and basically inedible. The gammon steak and pork chop were both undercooked, and the plate was swimming with meat juices. This meant that the chips were soggy (even before being served to me) and the meal was a complete combination of variations of cooked meats from almost raw to nearly-but-not-quite well done. Bizarre and not at all tasty. The peppercorn sauce for the steak (for which one had to pay extra), was the vilest and most unflavoursome peppercorn sauce I have ever tasted. 

Ordering a cup of tea at the end of the meal was also something a little like a 'Carry On' film without the humour! The service was unbearably slow (and it was a very quiet time in the restaurant too!), and we also had at least three waiters / waitreses attending to us at different times. We would ask something of one, or place an order, they would go and never return... and we would have to find someone else to request the same of. This happened on two occasions during our visit. The waitress forgetting about my tea milk completely....!

We returned here after our more than pleasant meal experience the time before, and we were looking forward to our meal here once again. However, if this is now the new norm there, I feel we should give it a wide berth.

Reviewer - Matthew Dougall