Sunday, 13 April 2025

GASTRONOMY REVIEW The Lowry Restaurant The Lowry Theatre Salford


A theatre restaurant with delusions of grandeur is possibly the best description of my experience at this Lowry Restaurant. The menu is small, with a choice of only 5 different starters, main courses and desserts. And this is a set price menu. Two courses for £30 or three for £35. With such a small choice then one should expect the meals to be top quality but sadly this was not the case.

My starter, honey poached pear (whistle when you find one of the very few small pieces in this dish!) with Lancashire cheese (too much - the overpowering ingredient and flavour), pickled walnuts (3 to be precise!), some apple blossom, pea shoots etc (OK), and several very hard mini crisp wafers (not entirely sure what they were, not on the menu, and did not work in this dish at all). 

My main, herb-crusted trout (a steak of trout that was so easily confused with salmon, even tasted like salmon, could easily have been salmon. The crusty herb affair was ok, but would have been nicer without), Saffron new potatoes (could not taste any saffron!), caramelised cauliflower puree (this was an awful swirl of grey-brown mulch which looked extremely unappetising and tasted of next to nothing!), samphire and sauce vierge (which I did not have and am rather glad I did not, it would not have complemented the trout in any way).The potatoes were plentiful but, like the rest of the food on my plate, was all slightly undercooked.

I was given a large knife and fork for this dish, when we truly needed something a little more delicate, and a fish knife.

We were given an option of extra side orders of vegetables. Today's two options were priced at £4 or £6 respectively.

In the restaurant's favour the place is light and airy with views over the canal. The tables have plenty of space between them and the staff are polite and inobtrusive. The dishes are nicely presented, but without wanting to be derogatory, this is pub grub trying to be haute cuisine!. 

Reviewer - Chris Benchley
On - 12/4/25

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